The Coast of Donegal - Part I

For a long time, I've wanted to photograph the Donegal coast, particularly since the “Wild Atlantic Way” was invented a couple of years ago. I planned to do it last January, but had to cancel when a vicious Arctic storm descended on the north west and closed many of the roads. The opportunity presented itself again in June, even if the time was limited, so I tried to cover as much as I could in less than two days.

The weather was not favourable, with cloud, wind and rain, and no chance of rising or setting sun lighting up the landmarks.

Despite it not being on the coast, I began with Barnes Gap, viewed from the lake, Lough Mourne. You have to open a gate and follow what city dwellers call a “cow path” to get to the lake. Entry is not forbidden, but there is a pumping station there, fenced in and covered in “Keep Out” signs. Closing the gate is a good idea, as there are cattle in the enclosed part.

Barnesmore Gap seen from Lough Mourne on the Ballybofey-Donegal Town road

Then I headed for the Fanad peninsula, most of which I had never seen before. I had, of course been to Ramelton and Rathmullen as well as Kerrykeel, but I had never been to Portsalon or to Fanad Head. The scenery is magnificent for much of this journey, although the roads are not exactly straight or wide. But, the traffic is light, and the drivers courteous, so it's an enjoyable experience. The beach near Portsalon, known as Ballymastocker, was rated the second most beautiful in the world a few years ago in a poll conducted by Lonely Planet, and you can see why. The only thing it lacks is the weather, and that's out of our control. On this early June evening, the entire population of the second most beautiful beach in the world consisted of one woman and one dog.

Ballymastocker Strand at Portsalon in the Fanad peninsula

Fanad Head lighthouse no longer inhabited but well preserved

On day two, I headed straight for Creeslough, and Doe Castle. I managed somehow to miss Doe Point, but I'll get it again. Once again I had to navigate very tiny roads with only one lane. If you meet a vehicle, one or other has to reverse! Having visited the old Castle and read all the warning signs, I continued on towards Dunfanaghy. I passed the signs for the Ards Priory and for Marble Hill Strand, but stopped to photograph the beautiful seafront at Portnablagh.

Doe Castle down a long narrow road

The seafront at Portnablagh

Following that, I headed for Horn Head, surely one of the most remote places in Ireland. I drove right to the end of the “road” and, to my surprise, found a few vehicles parked there, some with foreign registrations, including Dublin!

Cliffs near Horn Head

The view over Horn Head

The next stop was to be Bloody Foreland, but following the signs only worked for a while. Eventually, I came to a “Y”, neither of whose legs pointed to Bloody Foreland. I took the wrong one, so that landmark also awaits another day! I ended up in Dungloe in time for lunch.

I then retraced my route to see Burtonport and Kincasslagh, the home of Daniel O'Donnell.

Near the harbour at Burtonport

The strand at Kincasslagh

I passed by the Keadue Rovers football field where Packie Bonner was first discovered. Only the road separates it from the sea. After that I took the road to Gweedore and afterwards turned right towards Dunlewey. I wanted to see and photograph Errigal, the Poisoned Glen and the ruined church near Dunlewey. The first thing I noticed as I neared Dunlewey was a church on a hill which I stopped to inspect. It was, of course, the wrong church, quite new and in daily use. The abandoned church is right at the Poisoned Glen, but is not a burnt out ruin as is sometimes mentioned. It fell into disuse and disrepair when the Dunlewey estate disintegrated, having been built for the people of the estate in 1853. It was built of white marble, quarried less than a mile from the site. The roof was removed in 1955 due to safety concerns. The attached graveyard has just a single headstone. The church is said to be haunted, but I didn't wait long enough to find out, mainly because of a vicious shower of Donegal rain powered by a gale-force wind. But, I got a few decent photographs, even if I say so myself.

The Poisoned Glen named after the legendary exploits of the legendary Balor of the Evil Eye

The white marble abandoned Dunlewey church at Dunlewey Lake

Errigal mountain fronted by the haunted church

I then returned to Dungloe and took the road to Crohy Head, to see the head and Maghery Strand. There are actually two strands there, and I didn't know which was the real Maghery strand! It's actually the bigger strand, as you would expect, but I like the smaller one better. Crohy Head was seen from a distance, for fear of becoming part of the Atlantic Ocean due to the gale-force wind at that time. I did photograph Crohy tower, but didn't risk positioning to try getting the sea in the background.

The ruin of Crohy Tower at Crohy head

Strand near Maghery Strand near Crohy Head on the west coast of Donegal

After that, I thought that I might reach Narin/Portnoo before night, but this didn't work out partly due to taking the back road south from Dungloe, the one with the grass growing in the middle! It eventually joined the main N56, and I took the turn for Dooey Strand. Once again, this is a “long and winding” road, and narrow, and up and down hills. Eventually, I reached the strand, just as the heavens opened. (Did I mention the Donegal weather? I grew up in Donegal!). To photograph it properly requires ascending in a helicopter, or by levitation, or else moving a long way to either side of the beach. In the circumstances, none of these options was available. But, I'll return in better weather. The one consolation was a pair of portaloos installed in the parking lot. After that, there was no point in continuing. Watch this space for Part 2!

Boat at Ramelton in the late June evening